ADDRESS:   Level 1, Princes Wharf, 147 Quay St, Auckland CBD
MAINS:   $34 – $44
CONTACT:   09 978 2020
SCORE:   16 / 20

The sense of being suspended over the water, anchored to the city by a white thread of hotel, adds a singular dimension to the Fish Hilton experience. The multi-tiered dining room ensures every table has a view of the magical Waitematā. Land lovers are well catered for by pork belly with grilled octopus and smoked almond crème, or Coastal Lamb rack with tomato, olive and courgette. But the talented custodianship of chef Des Harris (Clooney, Hunting Lodge) gives the kitchen a strong seafood focus. Sustainably ethically caught fish is the name of the game and you can expect delights such as flamed Ōra King salmon with truffle mustard and line-caught fish with celeriac, nori and bonito crème. These are dishes in which local seafood is given the hero treatment and diners are the ones who benefit.

IN BRIEF: Water, water everywhere – with a fish focus