More than two decades since Logan Brown opened its doors, it remains an accolade to fine dining within the Wellington set. Its façade speaks of bygone eras: a 1920s building with classical Corinthian columns and a balustraded parapet evoke an air of elegance that is well suited to the experience it seeks to provide. Under the continued rule of co-owners Sean Clouston (pictured above left) and Steve Logan (above right), the food is centred on excellent technique and properly developed, deftly combined flavours. A confit duck legs sits atop cider-braised cabbage and puy lentils, served with a smoked celeriac purée that adds unexpected depth. Stewed sour cherries provide a foil to the richness of the meat. The diligent staff are well prepared to speak about the food and wines. The tasting menu offers the option for meals to be matched with wines selected by the sommelier and they stock a large selection of New Zealand’s best beers.

IN BRIEF Inner-city elegance and fine food