You won’t get fresher pasta than this, made right in front of you while you check out the menu and consider a glass of wine. And take your time over that wine list; the all-Italian selection is fabulous and the staff’s wine knowledge is impressive. When you turn your attention to the food you’ll find a stripped-back menu with a pure focus on pasta. The dishes are tried and true, such as tagliatelle with prosciutto or spaghetti alla amatriciana, but they’re done very, very well. A ravioli stuffed with pork and potato presents such subtle flavours and a textural sprinkle of poppy seeds for contrast – signs of a kitchen with the confidence to put out clean, uncomplicated flavours and allow the pasta to be the true star on the plate. The pasta makers work in the shop window, so passers-by can enjoy the theatre, too.

IN BRIEF Perfect pasta cooked with love

X