This is a dish that nurtures the soul with its honest simplicity and flawless technique. A light combination of goat’s cheese and egg, the twice-baked soufflé rises out of a bubbling, golden, creamy cheese sauce. Inspired by Anne Willan, the American founder of La Varenne cooking school, it’s been on the menu since day one and ownerchef Carl Koppenhagen reckons he’s made more than 20,000 of these soufflés over the course of the past 15 years. It’s one of the best things you could ever hope to eat.
Recipe Category: Recipe Collection
Recipe, Food Styling & Photography William Bowman
I used kingfish for this poke (pronounced poh-kay), but I also like kahawai, trevally or salmon here too. Feel free to use store-bought shichimi togarashi instead.
Fry breads are one of the simplest of breads and are found worldwide, from the youtiao of China, bannock of Scotland, or sopadillas of Mexico and South America. Some may be yeasted or include a raising agent, but they all use basic ingredients and are prepared with a minimum of fuss. This recipe is based on a fairly standard ratio for fry breads, but enriched with a little extra butter. Here I’ve made them into doughnuts with simple passionfruit and honey syrup. I used a delicate beechwood honey for the syrup and frozen passionfruit pulp, but do use fresh passionfruit if available. Each passionfruit has approximately 2 tablespoons pulp. These are best eaten on the day they are made.
Paua is such a treat when you can get it, although mincing it can be a bit of a fiddle. However you can find frozen pre-minced paua in seafood stores. Here the flavourings are kept fairly simple. Don’t overdo the horopito – the warm citrus notes can give quite a camphor-like taste when used in excess.
Turnip cake (law bok gow) or more accurately radish cake, is a popular component at yum cha venues and is especially popular at Chinese New Year. Normally it would have dried shrimp and/or Chinese sausage added to the mix. Steamed then fried and served with a chilli sauce or hoisin-based sauce and eaten as is, it’s a deliciously simple dish. I thought it would be a brilliant component for a vegetarian bao.
Mouclade is a famous – and somewhat surprising – dish from Brittany, in which mussels are first steamed then served with a lightly curried sauce. Of course, this combination works well with other shellfish too, and I especially like it with bigger tuatua.
Serve with crusty baguette as it would be in France, or you could use other types of bread; naan would be great. For more of a main course, spoon the shellfish and sauce over grilled fish and kumara puree or rice.
With tuatua there is nothing nicer than mixing the chopped meat with a simple batter, and frying. Here I have stretched the mix further with cabbage and potato. I use Lauraine Jacobs’ method of freezing the fresh tuatua in their shells so they only get cooked once, or use Cloudy Bay tuatua that are easy to shuck. If time is short mix the seaweed, lemon and togarashi seasoning into good-quality mayo to serve.
"A new take on Korean hot tofu soup that uses pipi with silky soft tofu – served bubbling hot in cast-iron bowls, it’s light and refreshing."
Korean hot tofu soup can be made with a meat base but I have based this version on my sister Meredith’s favourite soup – from the long-gone Korean restaurant at Auckland’s Mercury Plaza – which included little clams. The egg is added at the last minute and thickens the soup as you stir it through. If you are feeling hungry, double the quantity of tofu.
An all-in-one tray bake, based on the idea of the classic Portuguese dish of pork and clams. Choose a large roasting tray as you want an even layer if possible. You will need to start this recipe the day before to tenderise the pork and flavour it well with chorizo spices.