Lean spring lamb is a seasonal treat, but there is something comforting about slow-cooked, Italian-inspired winter dishes. Older lambs and hoggets become fattier and tastier, so this style of cooking suits them and has many benefits: the slow cooking breaks down connective tissue and traps moisture, resulting in fall-off-the-bone tender, juicy meat. Dishes are even better served a day or two after cooking. Meat can be trimmed of fat before cooking, but I like to cook it in advance and let the fat solidify in the fridge, then it is very easy to discard any excess before reheating, but still have the flavour infused into the meat. These cuts are cheaper, too, so that’s another bonus.

I have said lamb throughout but hogget is great, if not better, and often what you might have at this time of year.