ADDRESS: Level 2, Commercial Bay, 7 Queen St, CBD, Auckland
CONTACT: 022 524 4255
Check website for opening hours
MAINS: $46-$120

SCORE: 18.5/20

The name Ben Bayly inspires instant cuisine confidence and a textbook study in his multifarious skills rests here in Commercial Bay. Ahi has been around long enough to cement its place in this city-centre complex (it has even spawned an adjacent sibling), but it still has country connections. There’s an organic garden – all the better to intensify flavours in the produce on the plate. The panorama of delights stretches beyond the harbour views: the menu is a rollcall of suppliers and growers; the bar is splendidly stocked; the staff impeccable in attention. We love the less-regular menu mentions (wallaby, red deer – sustainably and ethically sourced) and we love that Bayly maintains his on-site presence despite all the hats he wears. Ahi means fire, and here we see it ignite the enthusiasm as well as firing our bellies in the best sense.

IN BRIEF: The brilliant Ben Bayly and his team at their best


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