ADDRESS: 9 Princes St, CBD, Auckland
CONTACT: 09 930 9123
WEBSITE: onslow.nz
Check website for opening hours
MAINS: $38 – $98

SCORE: 17.5/20

There’s no disputing the credentials of chef Josh Emett. The celebrated judge, author, social-media star and chef of many places has not let these achievements go to his head. Josh remains a modest culinary giant: one who’d rather let his food do the talking. Never is that more evident than his hallmark address where he, together with wife and co-owner Helen Emett, share credit. There’s a brooding private-club ambience to this stunning dining room, where you know you’re in for a refined treat. Can you go past the Fiordland crayfish éclair starter? Note the name-checked provenance, in evidence throughout this jewelled menu path. The (Big Glory Bay) gravadlax salmon trolley experience (delivered to your table by a modern-day dinner wagon) is another noteworthy component of an all-round memorable event. Josh is soon to open another Auckland restaurant. More, please.

IN BRIEF: A right royal treat on Princes St

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