IN THE WIDE WORLD OF CHEESE, Maasdam is a relative newcomer. First produced in the early 1980s by Dutch cheesemaker Baars (when it was known as Leerdammer), and subsequently called Maasdam by other Dutch cheesemakers in honour of the village of the same name, this cheese is effectively a Dutch take on the popular Swiss Emmental. Emmental, Jarlsberg and Maasdam are familiar names with an equally familiar profile – sweet, nutty, semi hard and often referred to as ‘Swiss’ style. They are also wash-curd cheeses, a process whereby some of the whey is removed from the curds and hot water is added, thus washing the curds. Acidity is lowered, resulting in the smooth and sweet nutty flavour these cheeses are renowned for. What sets these apart from other wash-curd cheeses is the addition of a propionic culture. This addition is responsible for the classic ‘eye’ formation during maturation. Here in New Zealand we are very much spoiled for choice when it comes to high-quality traditionally made Dutch-style cheeses. Karikaas in Loburn, Canterbury, has been producing its European-style cheeses since 1984. Owners and cheesemakers Diana and Alan Hawkins source milk for their award-winning cheeses directly from dairy farmer Julie Merhtens in Oxford. Those sorts of relationships matter when you need to truly understand what you are working with in order to produce the best. Karikaas Vintage Maasdam is aged for a minimum of 12 months and it is that extra ageing that lends this cheese its stronger flavour, while still retaining its sweet nuttiness. As the cheese ages, calcium lactate crystals form, typically in the eyes, adding that delightful crunch. A terrific addition to any cheeseboard, it is also ideal as an accent cheese in a fondue, mac and cheese, a toastie or a sauce. karikaas.co.nz PAUL BROUGHTON